Pearl Necklaces

Pearl Necklace Buying Guide

How to Choose a Pearl Necklace

Choosing a pearl necklace comes down to a handful of decisions: the pearl type, the pearl size, the length, the quality grade and how the strand is made. Each one changes how the necklace looks on her and what it costs, so it helps to take them in that order.

5 Pearl Types for a Pearl Necklace

The pearl type sets the color, size and character of the whole strand.

1. Akoya Pearl Necklaces

Akoya pearl necklaces are the bright, perfectly round white strands most people picture when they think of pearls. Grown in saltwater oysters, mainly in Japan, Akoya pearls are usually strung in 5–9mm sizes and show a sharp, mirror-like luster with rose, silver or cream overtones. Shop Akoya pearl necklaces.

2. Tahitian Pearl Necklaces

Tahitian pearl necklaces are naturally dark strands in charcoal, black, peacock, green and aubergine, grown in black-lip oysters in French Polynesia. Most strands run 8–14mm, so they read as bold and exotic. Shop Tahitian pearl necklaces.

3. White South Sea Pearl Necklaces

White South Sea pearl necklaces hold the largest white pearls, usually 9–16mm, grown in silver-lip oysters off Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. Their glow is soft and satiny rather than sharp, and a single strand carries real presence. Shop white South Sea pearl necklaces.

4. Golden South Sea Pearl Necklaces

Golden South Sea pearl necklaces range from pale champagne to deep gold and come from gold-lip oysters in the Philippines and Indonesia. Their natural warm color is rare, which makes a full golden strand one of the most distinctive necklaces you can own. Shop golden South Sea pearl necklaces.

5. Freshwater Pearl Necklaces

Freshwater pearl necklaces are grown in mussels, mainly in China, and come in white, pink, peach and lavender. They offer a gentle luster and the most necklace for the money, which makes them ideal for everyday wear and for layering. Shop freshwater pearl necklaces.

5 Pearl Necklace Lengths and Where They Sit

Pick the length by the neckline she wears most. Most of our strands can also be made to a custom length.

1. Choker (14–16 inches)

A choker sits at the base of the neck, which makes it the natural partner for open necklines, strapless dresses and off-the-shoulder tops.

2. Princess (17–19 inches)

A princess-length strand rests just below the collarbone and works with almost every neckline, which is why it is the most popular first pearl necklace.

3. Matinee (20–24 inches)

A matinee strand falls just above the bust, sitting comfortably over higher necklines, sweaters and business wear.

4. Opera (28–36 inches)

An opera-length strand hangs at or below the bust for evening wear, and it can be doubled into a two-row necklace for a second look.

5. Rope (37 inches and longer)

A rope-length strand is long enough to knot, wrap or layer in several ways, so one necklace can be worn many different ways.

Choosing the Right Pearl Size

Every half-millimeter makes a visible difference, and the price rises with each step because larger pearls take longer to grow.

1. 6.5–7mm for a Graceful First Strand

Pearls of 6.5–7mm are a graceful choice for a first strand or a younger wearer, delicate without looking small.

2. 7–8mm for the Everyday Classic

Pearls of 7–8mm are the everyday classic: clearly visible from across a room and still easy to wear with anything.

3. 8mm and Larger for a Statement

Pearls of 8mm and larger give a fuller, more dramatic strand for evening and for milestone gifts. See our pearl size guide to compare sizes side by side.

How Pearl Necklaces Are Graded

Pearl necklaces are graded on the familiar A-to-AAA scale, which weighs four qualities.

1. Luster

Luster is the most important quality in a pearl necklace: a high-luster pearl reflects your surroundings with crisp edges, while a low-luster pearl looks chalky.

2. Surface

Surface grading counts the small marks every pearl carries; the cleaner the surfaces across the strand, the higher the grade.

3. Shape

Shape grading measures how round the pearls are, because round pearls roll evenly and drape smoothly on the neck.

4. Matching

Matching measures how closely every pearl agrees in size, color and luster from one end of the strand to the other, which is what makes a strand look seamless.

5. Our Grades: True AAA, Collection Quality and GIA

Our True AAA strands show the brightest luster and cleanest surfaces on the A-to-AAA scale, our Collection Quality strands are hand-picked from our finest pearls for the closest match of all, and our GIA-certified Akoya strands come with an independent laboratory report. See how we grade.

What Makes a Well-Made Pearl Necklace

1. Hand-Knotting Between Every Pearl

Hand-knotting between every pearl keeps neighboring pearls from rubbing away each other’s nacre, and if the silk ever breaks, only one pearl can slip free instead of the whole strand.

2. Silk Thread

Silk thread gives a pearl necklace its soft, fluid drape, and it is the traditional stringing material for fine pearls.

3. A Solid Gold Clasp

A solid gold clasp keeps the strand secure and should be easy for the wearer to open herself; on many of our strands you can upgrade to a decorative or diamond clasp.

4. Uniform or Graduated

A uniform strand keeps every pearl close to the same size for a modern look, while a graduated strand places the largest pearls at center front and steps down toward the clasp for a softer, vintage drape.

Caring for a Pearl Necklace

1. Last On, First Off

Put your pearl necklace on after perfume, hairspray and lotion, and take it off first, because those products dull the nacre over time.

2. Wipe After Wearing

Wipe the pearls with a soft cloth after each wear to remove skin oils before they build up.

3. Store Flat and Separate

Store the necklace flat in its own pouch so the silk does not stretch and harder jewelry cannot scratch the pearls.

4. Restring on Schedule

Restring a pearl necklace about once a year if it is worn every day, or every few years with occasional wear; gaps between the pearls and knots are the sign it is time. We offer a pearl restringing service.

Pearl Necklace Gift Ideas

1. A First Pearl Necklace

The best first pearl necklace for most people is a white Akoya strand of about 7–7.5mm at princess length, because it suits nearly every neckline, age and occasion.

2. A Milestone Anniversary

For a milestone anniversary, a white or golden South Sea strand or a Tahitian strand marks the moment with larger, rarer pearls.

3. Matched to Her Coloring

Choosing a pearl color for her skin tone makes a gift feel personal: rosé overtones warm fair skin, silver suits cooler and olive skin, and golden pearls glow on deeper skin. Try our skin-tone viewer.

4. Something One of a Kind

For a gift no one else has, our Jewelry Replicator™ makes custom pieces to order.