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A Brief History of Pearls: Know your Akoya Pearls

The short answer

Akoya pearls are the classic round, white saltwater pearls grown in the small Akoya oyster, mostly in the cool seas of southern Japan. Kokichi Mikimoto produced the first fully round cultured pearl in 1905, and Japanese cultured pearls reached the jewelry market in the 1920s. Today about two thousand independent Japanese growers harvest Akoya pearls.

Reviewed by American Pearl’s pearl specialists · Updated October 2026
  A brief history of pearls

KNOW YOUR AKOYA PEARLS

The story of Akoya pearl cultivation is a fascinating one, the result of the hard work and creativity of several important individuals. But the story of Akoya pearls is especially associated with the life of one man: Kokichi Mikimoto.

In the late 1800's, Kokichi Mikimoto, a son of humble beginnings, began to experiment with pearl cultivation. Convinced he could farm pearls, Mikimoto worked for years -- usually unsuccessfully -- trying to coax pearls from oysters. Then, in 1905, after 12 years of painstaking work and trial-and-error, he successfully produced his first totally round pearl.

What had once been a gem reserved for the upper class and nobility, would now be available for all to own and cherish. In the 1920's, when Japanese cultured pearls were first introduced into the jewelry market, they confused pearl buyers, and raised much debate as to whether or not they were "real" pearls. But soon the world realized that cultured pearls were as real as natural ones, and that nature had simply been encouraged by human ingenuity. What Kokichi Mikimoto had helped create was an industry, one so closely associated with Japan today.

The sea around the southern half of Japan is the largest habitat in the world for Akoya oysters. Here, over the past hundred years, Japanese pearl growers have refined the techniques of pearl cultivation to a high art -- to a point where some of the world's loveliest pearls are grown, in a country where attention to detail combines so well with the love of beauty.

Today, some two thousand independent growers harvest pearls in the waters of Japan -- large and small cultivators alike, employing the same basic techniques to grow these lustrous gems to perfection.

In Module One of this course you learned how cultured pearls are generally cultivated, harvested and processed for market. Now let's see what points of interest apply in these areas to the Akoya pearl specifically. We'll do the same with South Sea and Tahitian pearls as well.

How pearls form in oysters
How pearls are harvested
How pearls brought to market
 
Know your Akoya pearls
Akoya Pearl Cultivation
Akoya Pearl Harvesting
Akoya Pearl Processing
Akoya Pearl Evaluation
 
Quality Factor One: Luster
Luster of Akoya Pearls
Quality Factor Two: Surface
Surface of Akoya Pearls
Quality Factor Three: Shape
Shape of Akoya Pearls
Quality Factor Four: Color
Color of Akoya Pearls
Quality Factor Five: Size
Size of Akoya Pearls
 
Know your South Sea pearls
South Sea Pearl Cultivation
South Sea Pearl Harvesting
South Sea Pearl Processing
South Sea Pearl Quality Evaluation
Luster of South Sea Pearls
Surface of South Sea Pearls
Shape of South Sea Pearls
Color of South Sea Pearls
Size of South Sea Pearls
 
Know your Tahitian pearls
Tahitian Pearl Cultivation
Tahitian Pearl Harvesting
Tahitian Pearl Processing
Tahitian Pearl Quality Evaluation
Luster of Tahitian Pearls
Surface of Tahitian Pearls
Shape of Tahitian Pearls
Color of Tahitian Pearls
Size of Tahitian Pearls
 
Gift Giving Occasions


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Akoya pearls: common questions

Who invented cultured pearls?

Cultured pearls were pioneered by Kokichi Mikimoto, who is credited with building the cultured-pearl industry. After about 12 years of trial and error he produced his first fully round cultured pearl in 1905.

Are cultured Akoya pearls real pearls?

Cultured Akoya pearls are real pearls because a cultured pearl is grown by a living oyster from nacre, just like a natural pearl. The farmer only starts the process. When Japanese cultured pearls appeared in the 1920s, buyers debated whether they were real.

Where do Akoya pearls come from?

Most fine Akoya pearls come from Japan, where the sea around the southern half of the country is the largest Akoya oyster habitat in the world. Akoya pearls are also grown in China.

Shop Akoya pearls

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