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We are assuming that you are looking to purchase a strand of Japanese Akoya Cultured Pearls, the same finer quality pearls one would find at a finer jewelry store such as Mikimoto or Tiffany & Co. We say Tiffany & Co. or Mikimoto, because it is only at these two stores and American Pearl that one could find our superior quality pearls. It is for this category of pearls that we are going to continue this five step pearl education. Please make a special note that American Pearl only sells perfectly round, perfectly clean flawless pearls. Pearls that are blemished are worth half the value compared to their flawless strand counterpart. Because American Pearl offers you perfectly clean pearls, you can rest assured that your pearls will hold their value and appreciate in value over time, whereas a strand of blemished pearls diminish in value over time.

Throughout history, pearls have shown themselves in practically every civilization and culture imaginable. From ancient Egypt to mesopotamia, the unmistakable presence of pearls is difficult to deny. In these early days, where much upon the earth was still undiscovered, the sheer beauty, brilliance and awe of the first pearl ever discovered, surely differentiated itself from anything else. Perhaps it was the pearl's beauty that first enamored these ancient societies? Or could it be the pearls' mystical qualities that caused people who owned them to associate similar feelings about themselves. Of course, with this beauty came an increased demand for something that was still unknown. In fact, the harder they tried to find pearls, the more difficult it was to find them. Within this first cycle of discovery, awe and the need to have more, the ancients unknowingly created a process that would give birth to one of the most valuable gems in the world; Pearls.

The very fact that it was the beauty of the first pearl ever discovered that defined its value is critical in your purchasing process. When purchasing pearls or any other jewelry, it is your responsibillity as a consumer to purchase the finest quality most beautiful pearls in your price range. There are several reasons for this. Because finer quality pearls are more beautiful, they will be enjoyed more. Finer quality pearls have the best chance of holding their value and improving in value over time. In addition, finer pearls must have a thicker nacre (the skin of the pearl) in order to deliver more luster (the mirror like quality of a pearl) making them more durable. In fact, nacre thickness and luster are directly correlated.

Regardless of what strand of pearls or pearl jewelry you purchase from American Pearl (A, A+, AA, AAA or Colleciton), rest assured that all the pearls on the strand will be perfectly round and perfectly clean. In fact, as you go up in quality, the only thing that changes is the pearls luster and nacre thickness.

If you are looking for a strand of Japanese Akoya Cultured Pearls, what follows is a grading system based on the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) Pearl Grading System. American Pearl has assembled an array of pearls that meet all the characteristics that complement the GIA pearl grading system. This way, you can see for yourself how pearls are graded. If for example you know that the difference between a "AA Quality" and a "AAA Quality" is that the latter has very high luster versus high luster, now you can judge for yourself using the photographs that follow.

This grading system describes pearls based on six characteristics that we will illustrate. Once you understand how to judge a strand of pearls based on these grading categories, you will be able to link pearl quality to market value. This chart below is important because it shows you the universe of pearls. Since pearls are a blind item, you need a chart to compare one characterstic in the nomenclature for grading pearls to another. This way, you know where you stand in the product-pricing mix. All the factors below combine to give you what is known as the "make" of a strand of cultured pearls.

Please note, there are other varieties of pearls such as South Sea Pearls that we discuss quality. Please look for this button marked "South Sea Pearl Quality" on the home page.

LUSTER

Luster is the quantity and quality of light reflected from the surface of a pearl. High luster pearls also have a deep seated glow. The luster of a good quality pearl should be bright and not dull. You should be able to see your own reflection clearly on the surface of a very high luster pearl. Reflected images of overhead lights are crisp and distinct in higher luster pearls while they are smudgy and washed-out in the dull ones. Any pearl that appears too white, dull or chalky indicates low luster. Higher luster pearls are most valuable. If you walk into a Mikimoto store, their AAA quality is Very High Luster, their AA quallity is high luster, their A+ quality is Medium Luster and their A quality is Low Luster.




At American Pearl, we subscribe to the philosophy that seeing is believing. That's why we have gone to the trouble of illustrating to you just how pearl dealers grade their own pearls. So let this "quality check" ultrasharp photograph un-pull the wool over your eyes. Don't let a seller's A+ quality sneak by you as a AAA. Here's your chance to look through the viewfinder and bring your purchase into focus.



Why are Japanese Akoya pearls the highest luster pearls in the world? Because Japanese pearls grow in waters whose colder temperatures affect the crystal structure of the nacre (the material of which pearls are made of) and make it potentially more lustrous than the nacre of cultured pearls grown elsewhere.

Do higher luster pearls have a longer life? Yes. High luster is an indicator of good nacre thickness and, as such, is an assurance of durability. The thicker the nacre coating on a pearl, the longer it will last.

BODYCOLOR

Bodycolor is the basic color of a pearl. The most common bodycolors are white and cream. White and pink command the highest value. The vast majority of consumers who purchase pearls with American pearl, Mikimoto or Tiffany & Co. select a white bodycolor pearl.





SHAPE

Shape is important in judging pearls. The rounder a pearl is, the higher its value. Baroque pearls have irregular, distorted shapes. If you purchase a strand of cultured pearls from American Pearl, you can rest assured that your pearls will be perfectly round; unless otherwise mentioned.





OVERTONE

Overtone(s) are the colors that overlie the bodycolor. Pearls with rosé or silver overtones have the highest value. People often ask us how to choose between rosé overtone pearls and silver overtone pearls. A consumer shopping for pearls should know that Tiffany & Co. sells silver overtones whereas Mikimoto is known for selling rosé overtones. According to the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) rosé overtones, as well as silver overtones improve the value of white pearls. Women who have fair skin prefer pearls with rosé overtones as they feel this color compliments their skin tone best. Women who have olive skin, darker skin or women who enjoy a year-a-round tan usually purchase silver overtones. If you've ever seen royalty wearing pearls, their pearls are usually white. This is our recommendation. Of course, the final choice lies with you or the recipient of the pearl necklace. Remember too, pearls absorb the surrounding colors due to their reflectiveness. Ultimately, once draped around the necklace, it is honestly difficult to notice the difference between rosé or silver overtones as it is very subtle. One should always purchase the color that they are drawn to.







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STEP 3: CHOOSE THE APPROPRIATE PEARL SIZE
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